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Fashion in the 1870s: A World of Bustles, Crinoline, and Changing Styles

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Fashion in the 1870s: A World of Bustles, Crinoline, and Changing Styles

The 1870s were a time of significant change in fashion, reflecting a shift in societal norms and the burgeoning industrial revolution. This period witnessed the decline of the elaborate and restrictive styles of the Victorian era, paving the way for a more streamlined and practical approach to clothing. While the iconic silhouette of the 1870s, defined by the bustle and the "hourglass" figure, remained, it became less exaggerated and more adaptable.

The Importance of Silhouette and Structure:

The 1870s saw a continued emphasis on the "S" curve, a silhouette that accentuated the bust and hips while cinching the waist. This was achieved through the use of corsets, which remained a staple of women’s attire, and the introduction of the bustle, a padded structure worn at the back of the skirt to create a rounded, voluminous shape. The bustle, a revolutionary innovation, allowed for a greater range of movement and a less restrictive silhouette compared to the cumbersome crinoline of the preceding decades.

Fabrics and Materials:

The 1870s witnessed a diversification of fabrics and materials used in clothing. While silks and satins remained popular for evening wear and special occasions, the increasing availability of cotton and wool made them accessible for everyday attire. These fabrics were often intricately patterned with floral motifs, stripes, and geometric designs, reflecting the growing influence of the Aesthetic Movement.

Women’s Fashion:

Daywear: Women’s daywear consisted of a variety of garments, including:

• The Polonaise: A fitted bodice with a short, gathered skirt that fell just above the knee. It was often worn with a contrasting sash or belt.
• The Princess Dress: A long, fitted dress with a single seam from shoulder to hem, creating a streamlined and elegant look.
• The Walking Suit: A practical and stylish ensemble consisting of a skirt, a fitted jacket, and a blouse. The jacket could be either long or short, and the blouse was often adorned with lace or embroidery.
• The Bloomer: A controversial garment, the bloomer was a short skirt worn with loose trousers that reached the knee. While initially championed by women advocating for greater freedom of movement, it faced significant societal resistance.

Evening Wear: For evening events, women wore more elaborate gowns, featuring:

• The Train: A long, flowing piece of fabric attached to the back of the gown, often elaborately embellished with lace, embroidery, or beading.
• The Décolleté: A low neckline that revealed the shoulders and upper chest, often accentuated with delicate lace or ribbon.
• The Bustle: The bustle remained a key feature of evening wear, creating a dramatic and elegant silhouette.

Accessories: Accessories played a significant role in completing the 1870s look. Popular choices included:

• Hats: Wide-brimmed hats with elaborate feathers, ribbons, and flowers were worn for both day and evening wear.
• Gloves: Gloves were considered essential for women of all social classes, and they were available in a wide range of materials, colors, and lengths.
• Jewelry: Necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and brooches were all popular accessories, often made of gold, silver, or gemstones.

Men’s Fashion:

Men’s fashion in the 1870s was characterized by a more relaxed and practical approach, moving away from the stiff and formal styles of earlier decades.

Daywear:

• The Frock Coat: A long, double-breasted coat with a high collar and wide lapels. It was often worn with a waistcoat and trousers.
• The Sack Coat: A loose-fitting, single-breasted coat with a rounded collar. It was more casual than the frock coat and was often worn with a vest and trousers.
• The Prince Albert Coat: A long, double-breasted coat with a narrow waist and a high collar. It was named after Prince Albert, the husband of Queen Victoria, and was considered a stylish and elegant choice.

Evening Wear:

• The Dinner Jacket: A single-breasted jacket with satin lapels and buttons. It was worn with matching trousers and a white shirt.
• The Tuxedo: A similar style to the dinner jacket, but with a more formal cut and often featuring a satin collar and cuffs.

Accessories:

• Hats: Men’s hats included the top hat, the bowler hat, and the derby hat.
• Ties: Ties were worn with both day and evening wear, and they were available in a wide range of colors and patterns.
• Pocket Watches: Pocket watches were an essential accessory for men, and they were often kept in a chain attached to a vest or trousers.

Children’s Fashion:

Children’s clothing in the 1870s was often modeled after adult styles, with girls wearing dresses and boys wearing trousers and jackets. However, children’s clothing was typically made of lighter fabrics and featured more playful colors and patterns.

The Influence of Social Class:

Social class played a significant role in determining the style and quality of clothing in the 1870s. Wealthier individuals could afford to wear fine fabrics, such as silk and velvet, and they often had their clothes made by skilled tailors or dressmakers. Those of lower social standing wore more practical and affordable clothing made from cotton or wool.

The Rise of Ready-to-Wear:

The 1870s saw the emergence of ready-to-wear clothing, which made fashion more accessible to a wider range of people. While initially limited to basic garments, the availability of ready-to-wear clothing helped to democratize fashion and make it more affordable.

The Impact of Technology:

The Industrial Revolution had a profound impact on fashion in the 1870s. The invention of the sewing machine made it possible to produce clothing more quickly and efficiently, while new textile mills churned out vast quantities of fabrics at lower costs. These technological advancements made fashion more accessible and contributed to the rise of ready-to-wear clothing.

The Changing Role of Women:

The 1870s witnessed a growing movement for women’s rights, and this was reflected in the changing styles of clothing. While women still adhered to the restrictive norms of the Victorian era, there was a growing desire for more practical and comfortable attire. The bloomer, though initially met with resistance, represented a desire for greater freedom of movement and a challenge to traditional gender roles.

Conclusion:

Fashion in the 1870s was a period of transition, marked by a shift from the elaborate and restrictive styles of the Victorian era to a more streamlined and practical approach. The iconic silhouette of the 1870s, defined by the bustle and the "hourglass" figure, reflected a changing social landscape and the growing influence of the Industrial Revolution. The emergence of ready-to-wear clothing and the growing movement for women’s rights further contributed to the evolving nature of fashion during this period.

FAQs

Q: What were the most common fabrics used in clothing during the 1870s?

A: Silk, satin, cotton, and wool were the most common fabrics used in clothing during the 1870s. Silk and satin were typically used for evening wear and special occasions, while cotton and wool were more popular for everyday attire.

Q: What was the purpose of the bustle?

A: The bustle was a padded structure worn at the back of the skirt to create a rounded, voluminous shape. It replaced the cumbersome crinoline of earlier decades, allowing for a greater range of movement and a less restrictive silhouette.

Q: What were the main differences between men’s and women’s fashion in the 1870s?

A: Women’s fashion emphasized a more elaborate and feminine silhouette, featuring corsets, bustles, and flowing gowns. Men’s fashion was more practical and relaxed, with a focus on comfort and functionality.

Q: How did social class affect clothing in the 1870s?

A: Social class played a significant role in determining the style and quality of clothing in the 1870s. Wealthier individuals could afford to wear fine fabrics and have their clothes made by skilled tailors or dressmakers, while those of lower social standing wore more practical and affordable clothing.

Q: What was the impact of the Industrial Revolution on fashion in the 1870s?

A: The Industrial Revolution had a profound impact on fashion in the 1870s. The invention of the sewing machine and the development of textile mills made it possible to produce clothing more quickly and efficiently, making fashion more accessible and affordable.

Tips

1. Focus on the silhouette: When studying clothing from the 1870s, pay attention to the "S" curve silhouette, created by the corset and the bustle.

2. Consider the role of fabrics: Note the variety of fabrics used in clothing, from silks and satins to cotton and wool. The availability of new fabrics and the rise of textile production influenced the styles of the era.

3. Examine the role of accessories: Accessories played a crucial role in completing the look of the 1870s. From hats and gloves to jewelry, accessories added a touch of elegance and personality.

4. Understand the impact of social class: Be aware of how social class influenced the style and quality of clothing. Wealthier individuals could afford more luxurious fabrics and elaborate garments.

5. Explore the changing role of women: Recognize the growing movement for women’s rights and how this impacted fashion. The bloomer, though controversial, represented a desire for greater freedom of movement and a challenge to traditional gender roles.

Conclusion:

Fashion in the 1870s was a fascinating period of transition, marked by a blend of tradition and innovation. The iconic silhouette of the era, the emphasis on practicality and comfort, and the growing influence of the Industrial Revolution all contributed to the unique and evolving nature of clothing during this time. By studying the fashion of the 1870s, we gain a deeper understanding of the social, economic, and technological forces that shaped the world of clothing and the lives of those who wore it.

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